Ice crystal decor and Yeti-tinis, all-white party looks, Wednesday Addams’ gorgeous goth black ruffled Alaia party dress and The Cramps’ dance to “Goo Goo Muck”…
“Woe What a Night” became the trendiest episode of television streaming in a year full of them, as shows like “Wednesday”, “The White Lotus”, “Euphoria” and “Stranger Things” made costume designers the influencers of 2022. Her work has sparked a booming online search for Portia dresses, House of Sunny sweater vests, Prada laces, face crystals and more, setting trends at all levels of the market.
Colleen Atwood, the four-time Oscar-winning costume legend behind all of Tim Burton’s films, conceived of “Wednesday,” which has become the second most-watched English-language series on Netflix, with an estimated 150 million households, according to the publisher. .
Users shared their own hacks on Jenna Ortega’s black prom dress, while the hashtag #wednesdayoutfits got 2.3 million views on TikTok and selected black-and-white “Wednesday” inspired pieces by Shein. , Participate in Enid Sinclair cosplay and more.
Since its premiere, the show has generated $180.5 million in media impact value, according to Launchmetrics. Alongside the show, the most mentioned brand was Prada, which caught the attention Wednesday for wearing Prada Monolith laces as school shoes and raising $1.4 million in media influence. Being on the viral dance scene earned Alaia $1.1 million in media influence value.
Atwood, who bought the Alaia dress from the brand’s New Bond Street boutique in London, said, “Maybe they’ll give me a discount,” laughing when he heard the numbers.
A costume designer for four decades, Atwood has created Hannibal Lecter’s mask, “Ed Wood’s” angora sweater, “Edward Scissorhands” Gothic black leather suit, Roxie Hart’s “Chicago” dance dresses and many more iconic movie looks . But this is the first time it was designed for a streaming show.
“It’s a different kind of audience participation and a lot has happened since other projects. Social media wasn’t as epic as it is today. Accessibility is much more, and the ability to communicate and get excited about a glance. It’s also international, so it’s very exciting.”
In 2010 Atwood designed a capsule collection with HSN fixed on “Snow White and the Hunter” and next year will have a capsule collection with Target tied to the upcoming live-action version of “The Little Mermaid” directed by Rob Marshall.
But so far, no one has approached him about doing anything around “Wednesday,” which hasn’t been renewed for a second season.
(L to R) Iman Marson as Lucas Walker and Emma Myers as Enid Sinclair on “Wednesday.”
VLAD CIOPLEA/NETFLIX
“A collection of capsules around ‘Wednesday’ could be a goldmine,” Atwood said. “Look at the different characters, you have Weems for grown women, you have Wednesday and Enid and all the other girls,” he said, adding that he would be willing to design it and keep the show going for another season. . “I’ve had a few really nice letters from people, and one of them is thank you so much for making ‘Wednesday’ because I’m really upset that my 13-year-old daughter cut her school uniform up to her crotch,” Atwood said. more modest approach to youthful style.
The second season of “The White Lotus” was the soundtrack for the character Tanya McQuoid’s beloved Dolce & Gabbana, and was worn by actress Jennifer Coolidge at the show’s premiere in a genius crossover, raising $800,000 in media influence together. According to Launchmetrics. Tanya’s pink Valentino bag, which was featured in many scenes of the series, earned the brand $335,000 in media impact value.
Haley Lu Richardson and Jennifer Coolidge in Season Two of HBO’s “The White Lotus.”
Fabio Lovino/HBO
However, it’s not just big brands that benefit from streaming series. Season Two of “The White Lotus” also featured knitwear from London’s independent label House of Sunny as part of Portia’s chaotic, Gen-Z wardrobe that was hotly debated on social media and among fashion editors.
Sarah Spellings, “Is Portia’s Clothes in ‘The White Lotus’ Good or Bad?”
Costume designer Alex Bovaird told The New York Times that Portia (played by Haley Lu Richardson) looks to social media influencers for inspiration.
Jennifer Coolidge and Haley Lu Richardson in Season Two of HBO’s “The White Lotus.”
Fabio Lovino/HBO
Part of the resonance of many streaming shows is that they hold a mirror up to the social media landscape of fashion creativity.
“People will send me street style shots or … when they see half-dressed teenagers, they’ll say it’s my fault,” said Heidi Bivens, costume designer at Euphoria. “But to be honest, these things were already going on. I just touched. And then I had a platform where I could put it on TV, where most of the time, especially on networks, it had a more commercial look.
Mesh tops, strappy dresses, and lace-up sandals are just some of the fashion trends revealed by the HBO hit series, which created its own #EuphoriaHigh TikTok contest when Season Two premiered last January.
“There’s this great opportunity for studios and producers to start seeing costume designers as bigger creative partners, not just people wearing cool clothes,” Bivens said.
The costume design also helped elevate her streaming ability.
Part of the real-world fashion success of “Euphoria” stars Hunter Schafer, Angus Cloud and Sydney Sweeney’s landing campaigns for Prada, Polo by Ralph Lauren fragrance, Miu Miu and more is due to Bivens’ ability to create characters using her own designs. Old and current pieces of brands such as House of CB, Akna, Prada and Coperni.
Sydney Sweeney in “Euphoria”.
Courtesy of HBO
Bivens’ appearance was also echoed on the runways; Paris-based brand Coperni drew direct inspiration from the show for their high school-themed fall 2022 collection, right down to the student lockers that were part of the making.
“They represent a new guardian, and it’s exciting to think that an American show can have such a huge impact on the world. “The language of fashion can travel,” said Bivens, a former WWD employee.
The Third Season of “Emily in Paris”, which will premiere on Wednesday, is also preparing to become a fashion hit based on the influence of the first two seasons, with bolder colors and patterns, berets, bare waists and strong shoulders.
Skins by Valentino, Balmain, Louis Vuitton, Christian Lacroix, Kevin Germanier, Skorpios, Essential Antwerp and more are among the 40,000 apparel and accessory pieces that costume designer Marylin Fitoussi has supplied for the HBO Max show.
Filipino Leroy-Beaulieu as Sylvie Grateau and Lily Collins as Emily in “Emily in Paris.”
Photo: Marie Etchgoyen/Courtesy Netflix
“[Brands] should be treated [costume designers] like influencers. What they don’t understand is that even though they don’t have to build everything from scratch, they curate and bring designs to the small and big screen, which makes them outstanding stylists,” said Stacy Jones, founder of pop culture brand partnership agency Hollywood Branded. .
Michael Jais, CEO of Launchmetrics, goes one step further: “The future is for brands to create their own TV shows.”